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Housetraining Basics PDF Print E-mail
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Sunday, 16 March 2008 21:32

(In Progress) Housetraining is a big enough (and difficult enough!) topic for a section on its own.  It's usually easy to housetrain a puppy, but when housetraining goes wrong, it's one of the most difficult and distressing problems to solve.

We'll start with how to housetrain correctly, try to understand how pups learn elimination behaviour, and then look at solving common elimination problems.

The most important thing to understand about elimination is that it is self-reinforcing.

That means simply that an animal feels the same relief you do at being able to let loose, urinate or defecate, and relieve bladder or bowel pressure.  Unlike you, though, an animal has not been potty trained and is not forced to cart about all sorts of Freudian hangups about appropriate and inappropriate toilet behaviour!

The second most important thing to understand about elimination is what triggers it, apart from the obvious internal trigger of needing to go.

In the beginning

Newborn puppies cannot relieve themselves.  Until they are three weeks old, mother has to stimulate urination and defecation by licking the peri-anal area.  She also cleans up after the pup, licking up and eating whatever he or she produces, probably as a defence against predators finding the litter by smell.

By the time the pups are 3 weeks old, their ears and eyes are open and they are moving around quite a lot, although their hind legs are still a bit wobbly. I'm sure I'm not the only person who has collected up a litter of 3-week-old puppies and put them down outside the whelping box for their evening exercise, only to have all eight of them (or 10, or 15!) squat simultaneously and wee on the floor for the very first time!

This is where a knowledgeable breeder can make your life as a puppy owner much easier.  At this stage, pups learn very quickly to move away from their sleeping area (in fact this seems to be an instinctive behaviour).  They won't move far, however, and what will usually trigger elimination is a change of substrate, or whatever they can feel under their feet. Assuming the weather and the whelping room arrangements allow it, this is the time to get the pups onto grass as much as possible. The substrate near the whelping box rapidly becomes a cue, or trigger, for eliminating, and if this is tile or carpet, the breeder is (usually unwittingly) setting you up for a difficult housetraining exercise.  First prize is grass, and the next best thing is newspaper.

So one of the things to do when collecting your pup is to find out where the pups were kept, how much time they spent outside, and what the floor surface near their sleeping area was.

Breeders generally do the best they can, and that best includes a great deal of cleaning up, so don't blame the breeder or go elsewhere if the pups have been allowed to mess on lino, concrete or carpet.  Just be aware that your housetraining exercise will be much simpler if you can prevent the pup from having access to the same types of flooring for his first couple of weeks in his new home.

 

Last Updated on Saturday, 26 December 2009 18:07
 
Clicker Training the Rescue Dog PDF Print E-mail
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Saturday, 25 August 2007 15:44
Rescue or shelter dogs which have been abused by humans can be remarkably difficult to clicker train - apparently!  In fact, unless they are exceptionally traumatised, most of them are only too grateful for food and attention, and are capable of becoming wonderful workers and even of competing, if they have good working drive.  But there are several things which can go wrong up front, and which may make the dog appear to be reluctant to work.  Although there is no single solution for anxiety, and no single approach to rehabilitation, here is a case study of how clicker training can apparently fail, and how to remedy the situation.
Last Updated on Saturday, 13 October 2007 12:16
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Dealing with Aggression PDF Print E-mail
Written by Administrator   
Wednesday, 04 July 2007 23:08
Aggression is probably the most misunderstood and mishandled behaviour problem amongst dogs.  It is also one of the most prevalent problems reported to behaviourists.  Many otherwise experienced trainers are at a loss when it comes to dealing with aggressive dogs.  So why is it such a problem?
Last Updated on Thursday, 05 July 2007 00:46
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More on Dominance PDF Print E-mail
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Tuesday, 05 June 2007 14:16

Q. My dog is dominant and has growled at me a few times when I try to kick him off the couch. I’ve been told that I ought to alpha-roll him to prove that I’m dominant, but I’m scared he’ll bite me. What should I do?

A. The wolf-pack theory of dog behaviour is so prevalent amongst dog trainers and people who write articles about dogs that it has become taken for granted. Articles on how to deal with “dominant” dogs abound. It is assumed without question that social status and rank is important to dogs. “Dominance” aggression toward owners is one of the most frequently reported problems behaviourists have to deal with. So it would be nice to know first of all how much truth there is in the idea.

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Dominance Myths PDF Print E-mail
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Tuesday, 05 June 2007 13:08

It started with the words of dog trainer Konrad Most, writing in 1910:

“In a pack of young dogs fierce fights take place to decide how they are to rank within the pack. And in a pack composed of men and dogs, canine competition for importance in the eyes of the trainer is keen. If this state of affairs is not countered by methods which the canine mind can comprehend, it frequently ends in such animals attacking and seriously injuring not only their trainers, but also other people. As in a pack of dogs, the order of hierarchy in a man and dog combination can only be established by physical force – that is, by an actual struggle in which the man is instantaneously victorious. Such a result can only be brought about by convincing the dog of the absolute physical superiority of the man.”

Last Updated on Tuesday, 05 June 2007 13:28
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